The Calm Before The Storm
It felt immediately heavy when I arrived in CDMX airport. There was so much tension in the air. Things were already different as soon as I ordered my Uber, like I always do. But immediately, my Uber driver messaged me saying that he couldn't pick me up because they would give him a fine, and asked if I could meet him by a hotel near one of the gates.
As soon as I walked out of the gates, I noticed there were a TON of police in riot gear. Way more than what I'm used to seeing. And I couldn't get back into the airport. The guards were telling me that there were protesters everywhere and that it was getting serious. I had to cancel the Uber and get a taxi.
Of course, I'm a little suspicious about using taxis, but what else could I do? My taxi driver was cool and listened to rock. Even after speaking some English to me because he could tell I was traveling from the U.S., he still asked, "¿Cuántos años tienes viviendo en los Estados Unidos?" I told him I was born in the U.S. Even though my Spanish sucked, it was good enough that he believed I was from Mexico, so I was a little flattered.
He started playing some rock music for me, and I added the songs to my playlist. We talked a little bit about video games and how his son is obsessed with Halo. He also told me that his ex-wife sold his son's Halo Reach Collector's Edition when they separated.
But as we were getting closer to my Airbnb, we noticed some cars driving the wrong way. They were signaling that the roads were blocked up ahead. Luckily, we didn't hit the roadblocks. I had stayed at this Airbnb three times before, but this time they required a lot more information for security reasons.
Once I got situated, I went to see my friend's art displayed at a gallery space literally down the street. We've been in contact for a while but had never met in person, so this was the perfect opportunity. The show was called "Archivo Movimiento: México, Fútbol y Memoria." It featured archival photos of soccer games. Some artists were also selected to choose their favorite photo and add their own elements. Some artists, including my friend, were chosen to paint a skull, which is what the gallery space was known for. But the theme had to be fútbol.
Almost every artist said they don't follow fútbol, but they have a lot of memories around it. And it had me thinking too, because I also don't follow fútbol or sports in general. But I do have so many memories. With my dad and brother, with my family in Mexico, all the club soccer memories, and all the asthma attacks lol. It was really digging into my brain.
Then one of the artists explained her design called "La pasión nunca muere." First, she started by saying that she was always the one sitting down and randomly getting hit by the ball. That was me too! But she explained that beyond soccer, our passion for the memories, for the gatherings, for family, and for the traditions that the sport brings cannot die. And that's what we can cherish.
But also speaking to those of us who are so conflicted with this entire situation. The corruption happening. All the protesters too. They are out there, and rightfully so. Some of the biggest protests in Mexico have always centered around sporting events. It's when they can get the most visibility and make the most noise. Atrocities have happened too.
And not only that, but the folks putting on this exhibition of archival photography gave us more context. My friend asked if the person in charge could explain a little about the foundation. He took us back in time to Zapata, Pancho Villa, Díaz, all the old heads. He talked about how things were documented, recovered, and archived. The purpose of photographs and such. And it just blew our minds.
And that's why it has all felt so heavy since getting here. Nothing crazy has happened, but it does feel like the calm before the storm. Tomorrow, Mexico plays against South Africa, and all of Mexico will be watching in some way.
I've only been here for 4 hours.